Earrings 101: Styles, stones & their significance

Jewellery has always been a defining element of South Asian culture, with earrings being one of the most cherished accessories. From delicate studs to elaborate chandeliers, these intricate earrings come in a variety of styles, each with its own unique history and cultural significance. Let’s take a closer look at the different types of earrings, classified by style and stone, along with their historical roots.

By Style

Studs

Simple yet elegant, studs are small earrings that sit directly on the earlobe. They are often adorned with diamonds, pearls, or gemstones and are perfect for both daily wear and formal occasions. Traditionally, pearl and gold studs were worn by royal families as a symbol of sophistication.

Jhumka

One of the most iconic styles in South Asian jewellery, jhumkas are bell-shaped earrings known for their intricate craftsmanship. They originated in temple jewellery and were worn by dancers and deities in South Indian culture. Over time, jhumkas have evolved into various designs, incorporating gold, pearls, and meenakari work.

Chandbaali

Inspired by the shape of the crescent moon, chandbaalis are dramatic, curved earrings that date back to the Mughal era. These earrings, often encrusted with polki or kundan stones, were a favourite among Mughal royalty and are still a staple in bridal jewellery.

Chandelier Earrings

Chandelier earrings feature tiered, dangling elements that create a cascading effect. These opulent designs have been popular in regal attire and are often paired with heavy embellishments, making them a striking choice for weddings and festive occasions.

Bali (Hoops)

Hoops, or balis, are circular earrings that vary in thickness and size. In South Asia, gold hoops have long been a traditional choice, with intricate filigree designs or gemstone embellishments adding to their appeal. Hoops symbolise eternity and are often gifted to young girls as their first piece of jewellery.

Tassels

Tassel earrings incorporate dangling silk threads, beads, or chains to create movement. While a more modern adaptation, tassel earrings have their roots in the elaborate beaded jewellery worn by Rajput and Mughal women.

Passa (Jhumar)

Distinctive to bridal attire, the passa (or jhumar) is a side-hanging earring worn on one side of the head, often paired with a matching jhumka on the other. Adorned with gold, pearls, and polki stones, passa exude vintage charm and are a significant part of traditional bridal attire.

Kan Bali

A traditional earring style, kan balis are large hoops that extend behind the earlobe, often attached to the hair with a chain. This intricate design ensures both elegance and support, making it a timeless heirloom piece.

Bugadi

A distinct earring style from Maharashtra and South India, bugadis are small, curved earrings designed for the upper cartilage of the ear. These earrings, often embedded with pearls or diamonds, hold cultural significance in bridal jewellery.

By Stone and Craftsmanship

Polki

Polki earrings are made using uncut, natural diamonds set in gold. This traditional Rajasthani jewellery technique dates back to the Mughal period and remains a popular choice for bridal sets due to its antique charm.

Diamond

While diamonds are a universally cherished gemstone, South Asian designs often pair them with intricate gold filigree or meenakari work, creating a blend of contemporary and traditional aesthetics.

Navaratna

Navaratna jewellery features nine auspicious gemstones, each representing a celestial body in Hindu astrology. Earrings made with navaratna stones are believed to bring prosperity and good fortune.

Temple Gold

Inspired by South Indian temple jewellery, these earrings are crafted in pure gold with depictions of deities, floral motifs, and intricate carvings. Said to have originated from the Chola and Pandya dynasties, they remain a bridal favourite in both North and South India.

Kundan

A Mughal-era jewellery style, kundan earrings feature highly refined gold settings embedded with glass stones. This technique creates a strikingly regal look, often seen in traditional Rajasthani and North Indian bridal jewellery.

Meenakari

Meenakari earrings showcase vibrant enamel work, an art form introduced by Persian craftsmen during the Mughal reign. These earrings often feature intricate patterns in bright colours, making them a striking addition to any jewellery collection.

Cultural and Historical Significance

Earrings have played a symbolic role in South Asian history, signifying status, marital status, and cultural heritage. During the Mughal era, elaborate chandbaalis and jhumkas adorned the noblewomen of the court, while temple gold jewellery was deeply rooted in religious traditions. In many communities, earrings are also given as a part of blessings for young brides. The craftsmanship involved in traditional earrings, such as meenakari and kundan, showcases the rich heritage of artisanal jewellery-making in South Asia.

Today, while modern adaptations have emerged, the traditional styles of earrings continue to hold cultural and sentimental value, making them timeless treasures passed down through generations. The intricate craftsmanship and historical significance of these styles make them more than just accessories—they are a testament to centuries of artistic and cultural brilliance.