When art becomes couture: An interview with Asha Gautam on their 2025 bridal collection
- The Wedding Chest
- Nov 7, 2025
- 4 min read
In conversation with Mr Gautam Gupta, Creative Director of Asha Gautam, the brand’s latest bridal line, Chitrakala, reveals itself as more than a seasonal collection: it is a study in artistry. Literally meaning “artwork” or “painting”, Chitrakala unfolds as a visual symphony where classic art and heritage craftsmanship take centre stage.
Born from the romance of legendary painter Raja Ravi Varma (1848–1906), this collection can only be described as painstakingly bespoke, brought to life through an astonishing 3,000-3,500 hours of handwork by India’s master karigars. The result? A collection that honours tradition and heritage, with a modern-day stamp.
A Tribute to Raja Ravi Varma
To understand Chitrakala, one must first step into the world of Raja Ravi Varma (1848–1906), the artist whose vision redefined the Indian art world. Dubbed the “Father of Modern Indian Art”, Varma was celebrated for bringing both deities and everyday figures to life, imbuing his subjects with a natural, unmistakably human presence.
“Chitrakala was born from the emotive universe of Raja Ravi Varma — not from one painting, but from his entire philosophy of translating emotion into art. His women—graceful, strong, and deeply human—became our muses.”
It is this emotive duality, the unbridled individuality and strength of women expressed through gentle femininity, that became the cornerstone of Chitrakala. Gupta explained that the collection borrows not from a single visual, but the sentiment of Varma’s work.
“We were drawn to the way he merged divinity and realism, much like how Indian craftsmanship blends discipline with imagination. Each lehenga in Chitrakala carries that spirit..."
Shakuntala Looking for Dushyanta
1898 ⋅ Raja Ravi Varma
Showcasing the Mahabharata heroine Shakuntala, Varma portrayed her feigning to remove a thorn from her foot while secretly searching for her lover, Dushyanta, as her friends playfully tease her.
Mohini on a Swing
1894 ⋅ Raja Ravi Varma
Mohini, the enchanting female avatar of Lord Vishnu, is elegantly portrayed on a swing. A celebrated figure in Hindu mythology, she is revered for her grace and divine allure.
A Canvas of Crafts
Chitrakala spans an extraordinary landscape of craftsmanship; uniting Banarasi, Paithani, and Bandhani weaves across 7 states, 15 craft clusters, and over 30 traditional techniques. From intricate zardozi to delicate French knots, each piece is the result of years of collaboration and shared knowledge.
"India’s craft landscape is a tapestry of regions, languages, and textures, yet it all speaks one emotional language. In Chitrakala, we wanted to celebrate that dialogue. The intention was not to merge crafts but to let them converse with one another, like a celebration."
Authenticity to heritage demands full immersion, something Asha Gautam does not shy away from. Working with traditional techniques is never straightforward; with each craft presenting its own set of challenges when bringing it to life. Paithani and French knots, Gupta admitted, are particularly humbling, requiring meticulous dedication and precision. The effort, however, pays off in truly timeless pieces.
At the heart of the brand’s ethos is close collaboration with artisans in their own environments, preserving the natural rhythm of their craft while opening new avenues for design dialogue.
"Our relationship with artisans is built on conversation and trust. They are not just craftsmen — they are storytellers, custodians of centuries-old wisdom."
Where Heritage Meets Modernity
For new-age designers in India, the question remains: how can modernity align with such a rich heritage? At Asha Gautam, these dichotomies coexist in a delicate balance. The brand’s core value resonates through every creation: honour traditional craftsmanship while reimagining its place in the modern world. A classic Banarasi weave, for example, may be rendered in softer hues or lighter fabrics, preserving its essence while appealing to the contemporary bride.
"To balance modernity and tradition, we’ve been exploring new ways to reinterpret our classics. A large part of this comes through our blouses — experimenting with contemporary cuts, styles, and detailing while keeping the embroidery deeply rooted in heritage."
With a clientele spanning generations, the house ensures that its respect for tradition does not hinder it from catering to evolving tastes. But it is the luxury of time, touch, and tradition that resonates with their audience. Chitrakala speaks to that bride: one who values individuality as much as tradition.
"In a world of instant gratification, true luxury lies in patience — in knowing that something was made slowly, by hand, with purpose. Our brides connect to that emotion."
The Heart of the Collection
Among the intricate pieces that make up the Chitrakala collection, one stands out as its heart: a classic red bridal lehenga. The ensemble features a myriad of detailed accents and traditional techniques, paired with a meticulously hand-embroidered blouse and sheer organza dupatta.
"[The] red bridal lehenga draws inspiration from the sublime beauty of water lily motifs, a symbol of grace and serenity. Adorned with exquisite zardozi embroidery...it is a true celebration of opulent craftsmanship."
Every lehenga, saree, or drape from Chitrakala feels destined to outlive its wearer: a modern heirloom. With Chitrakala, Asha Gautam reminds us that couture, at its highest form, is art; painted not in pigment, but in thread. As our conversation drew to a close, Gupta summed up the brand’s philosophy in three words:
"Heritage. Reimagined. Artisanal."
Chitrakala is now available at: Asha Gautam, M-8 second floor, Greater Kailash-1, New Delhi – 110048
